Interior paint typically gets dirty in many situations: hand prints around switches and knobs; splashes in kitchens and bathrooms; marks on hallways and corridors; “soot” accumulating above electric lamps and other heat sources. Removing dirt before it accumulates not only improves appearance, it reduces chances of it getting permanently embedded in the paint film.
Check for dirt periodically and assume it will be present in and near cooking areas (airborne cooking oil) and at all places at hand height. Always initially clean the surface with a mild detergent using a sponge or a soft cloth. Resort to harsher cleaners only when necessary, recognizing that alkaline cleaners can dull the sheen or gloss of oil based paint. Abrasive cleaner will burnish nearly any paint and will dull the gloss of satin, semigloss and gloss products. Washed surfaces should be rinsed thoroughly because residual cleaner can interfere with adhesion of paint applied later.
Generally an exterior painting job will need to be redone every 5-10 years. Stucco tends to last longer, wood on the other hand expands and contracts more with changing temperatures which loosens the paint sooner.
It is best not to put off your exterior painting until the house is badly peeling. When it gets to that condition, it will end up costing you more in preparation time and possibly dry rot repair work.
If however the property is in a bad condition when you get to it, do yourself a favor – go the extra length and ensure that thorough surface preparation is done. The idea is to create a sound surface for the new coats to adhere to. This requires more time but is necessary for the paint job to last.
Elastomeric Waterproofing System is normally used on exterior stucco and often when the surface has a lot of hairline cracks. Elastomerics are formulated to be applied in very thick coats. When applied correctly, due to their high elasticity, they have a special capacity to span hairline cracks permanently. Instead of these cracks reopening on your stucco, the Elastomeric would stretch and keep them sealed up. This then keeps water out and protects your home from damage. Elastomeric looks much like any other paint and it can be tinted to most colors.
It is generally understood that color combinations that appear pleasing are made up of colors that are in harmony or in balance with each other. Colors that do not appear to agree with each other or that clash are not in harmony.
Whether it is the interior or exterior painting, we normally start a client out with a chart of stock colors. Stock color paints tend to perform better due to the process of their manufacture.
On the exterior paints chart, there is also a nice variety of harmonious color combinations to choose from.
Another very good way to get started on exterior color selection is to take a drive around the neighborhood and find similar houses to yours to see what others have done with colors. This way you get a very good idea of what the final look of your home might be.
We can provide you with cardboard brush outs, or roll out samples directly on the areas to be painted. Many clients find this process helps them to better visualize the final result.
Latex paints are more environmentally friendly than oil based paints. With oil based paints there are paint fumes to contend with that can be particularly bothersome on interior painting jobs. There is also a by product of dirty paint thinner that requires a trip to your local toxic waste site. (We always get rid of this waste as part of our work.)
There are other factors as well: Latex primers and finishes have been improving tremendously over the years and are very durable. For instance a latex finish on an exterior painting job will stay elastic for years, where oil based paint dries to form a hard and more brittle film. Surfaces expand and contract with weather. While the latex paint will move with the surface, the oil will tend to crack sooner with this movement.
The advantage of using oil paints is that it will give a smoother look as it tends to layout better on the surface and so not show brush marks as much as latex. Also, as was already mentioned, oil dries hard so it tends to be more washable than latex.
If your house was built prior to 1978, chances are it has lead paint on it. A lab test can be done or a simple inexpensive tester can be purchased at a local hardware store if you want to make sure.
There are procedures set by Lead Paint Ordinance on how any work involving lead paint is to be done. These procedures are worked into our approach to the painting work and our painters are trained on all the necessary steps to take. We start with having a containment barrier to ensure that the paint chips do not go where they’re not supposed to, that being onto your or your neighbor’s property, or the inside of your home.
We clean up daily and bag the paint chips for proper disposal.
For more information on lead paint call 1-800-424-LEAD
The term surfactant leaching is used to describe spots or streaks of sticky brown or colorless material that appears on the surface of freshly applied latex paint. Surfactant leaching is a common paint problem that may occur with any brand of latex paint. The spots or streaks caused by surfactant leaching, while unsightly, are not harmful and do not affect the performance of the paint.
Surfactants are ingredients in paint that are critical to the performance properties of the paint such as its color, stability, flow, and leveling. These materials usually evaporate in good drying conditions, or they are locked into the paint film. The staining occurs when drying conditions cause the paint to dry too slowly, allowing the surfactants to rise to the surface of the paint. The spotting and streaking occur when moisture condenses on the fresh paint and draws the surfactants rapidly out of the paint film. Heavy condensation will cause streaking from the run down of surfactant-rich water.
Surfactant leaching usually occurs during the spring and fall when the daytime temperatures drop below the dew point rapidly, or when temperatures are low and humidity remains high. In costal areas, such as Seattle, the marine layer can suddenly increase humidity and cause surfactant leaching any time of the year.
Paint blocking is an adhesion problem that occurs when two freshly painted surfaces stick together when pressed against each other. This often happens between a door and frame if closed before paint has completely cured. When separated, the paint may peel or leave a mark.
One way to prevent paint stickiness is to place wax paper between the door and the door jamb. The wax from the paper creates a barrier between the two surfaces. Don’t immediately stick the paper in the door frame. Instead, wait for the door to dry for one to two hours. Then place the wax paper between the two surfaces before closing the door for the night. Another wax method is to rub a white candle over the edges of the door after the paint dries. This gives the freshly painted door some protection from the newly finished jamb.
We never charge a fee to provide an estimate for your painting project.
There are many things to consider including: type and size of the painted area; type of windows and other trim work; number and intensity of paint colors; amount of protection needed for plants and furniture; quality of paint used; and the extent of needed paint surface preparation. All of those things will be considered in order to provide you with an accurate cost estimate.
The process can take as little as 4-5 days from the time we connect with you. However, it can take longer depending on the condition of your surfaces, the type of work required, and weather conditions if the project involves exterior work.
During our consultation with you, we will evaluate your situation and can let you know how long we think it will take to complete your painting project.
Yes, all of our work comes with a warranty.
They provide even light reflection and give the surface a softer, more uniform look.
They don’t highlight surface imperfections like higher sheen paints, so they usually don’t require as much surface preparation (like patching, texturing or sanding) prior to painting.
They are much less likely to show “lap marks”, so they are generally easier to apply and touch up than higher sheen paints. (When one painted section dries before the next section is painted, the two sections won’t flow together into a uniform film, resulting in a “lap mark.”)
They don’t need to be sanded or de-glossed before repainting, unlike higher sheen paints.
They are less stain and scuff resistant than higher sheen paints, so they should not be used on surfaces that will be handled, washed or scrubbed frequently.
They are less moisture resistant than higher sheen finishes, so they are not the best choice for areas that are exposed to high humidity levels, like in bathrooms, or on any surfaces that will be washed frequently.
They have better stain resistance, so they resist dirt pick up and stay cleaner longer.
They have better scuff and wear resistance, so they’re good for high traffic areas and on surfaces that are handled, washed or scrubbed frequently.
They have better moisture resistance, which makes them ideal for surfaces and areas that are frequently exposed to high humidity levels.
They tend to highlight any surface imperfections.
They are harder to touch up than lower sheen paints, because the higher sheen tends to highlight the slightly raised surface of the film where the touch up was done.
They usually need to be sanded, de-glossed or primed prior to repainting, to ensure good adhesion of the new paint.
Sheen refers to the light reflectivity of the painted or varnished surface. There are varying degrees of sheen, from no sheen to high gloss. Paint manufacturers may refer to their paint sheens by different names. From lowest to highest, sheens correspond to these reflective degrees:
- Flat finish
- Eggshell finish
- Satin finish
- Semi gloss finish
- High gloss finish
Acrylic (latex) paint dries much faster than Alkyd (oil). Usually a couple of hours is plenty of time. Oil paint though should dry overnight. Flat paint may dry faster than semi gloss.
Yes. We schedule each job to be completed in consecutive days, including exterior jobs, if weather permits.
We use the only professional quality paints from Sherwin Williams, Kelly Moore and Benjamin Moore unless the customer requests a different brand.
On interiors, after you have removed your personal items all areas or items, remaining will be covered with clean drop cloths or plastic sheeting. On exteriors: shrubs and surrounding areas are protected so that no evidence of paint or paint peelings remains.
Yes, our references our available upon request.
When I get different bids from several companies, they are never the same, some high, some low. Why is there such a price difference?
The cost of a job is usually determined by the level of thoroughness, attention to detail, and quality desired. It costs more to properly prepare a surface for painting than to just pressure clean and scrape the surface. The majority of the cost of painting is in the surface preparation and the labor involved in the application of the paint and not the actual cost of the paint itself. As with most other industries, generally you get what you pay for.
Just move the small items and breakables.Viking Coatings will move and protect all of the furniture and fixtures.
First, scrub a small area with a solution of household detergent and warm water. Rinse well and towel dry. Then soak a cotton ball, Q tip or soft rag in alcohol and rub it back and forth over the cleaned area. If paint comes off, it’s latex. If not, it’s oil based. In either case, proper prep is key.